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COMPASS RELIC MAGNUM 6

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COMPASS RELIC MAGNUM 6

Michael
DOES ANY ONE HAVE AN OWNERS MANUAL OR SOME FORM OF SCHEMATICS FOR THIS MODEL TO DOWNLOAD AND HAVE ON PAPER i KNOW ALL THE FUNCTIONS THE CONTROLS HAVE
THANK YOU FOR ANY HELP
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Re: COMPASS RELIC MAGNUM 6

Melbeta
Michael wrote
DOES ANY ONE HAVE AN OWNERS MANUAL OR SOME FORM OF SCHEMATICS FOR THIS MODEL TO DOWNLOAD AND HAVE ON PAPER i KNOW ALL THE FUNCTIONS THE CONTROLS HAVE
THANK YOU FOR ANY HELP
I have not seen any schematics for this model, nor have I seen any scanned copies of a factory manual that you can download for free.

 However, if you want to spend some money, I know where you can find some actual factory vintage Compass manuals for sale. Myself, I prefer to buy factory actual original manuals, rather than buy some poor photocopied manuals from someone at around $8.00 for the photocopys. I bought a photocopyed manual for a Compass Coin Magnum once and it was so faint and poor of a copy, it was not useable...
Melbeta
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Re: COMPASS RELIC MAGNUM 6

MICHAEL
There is a manual is this forum for the Relic Magnum 7
Very close to the 6 but it's really bad when you print to make a copy
I have Retype all the pages into Microsoft Word to have clear and larger printing
It was a lot of work,but now I have it on paper
Shame it's not exactly the one for the Relic 6
But since you mention where can you get the vintage factory manuals
How do you download pics and info on this site
Cheers
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Re: COMPASS RELIC MAGNUM 6

Melbeta
MICHAEL wrote
There is a manual is this forum for the Relic Magnum 7
Very close to the 6 but it's really bad when you print to make a copy
I have Retype all the pages into Microsoft Word to have clear and larger printing
It was a lot of work,but now I have it on paper
Shame it's not exactly the one for the Relic 6
But since you mention where can you get the vintage factory manuals
How do you download pics and info on this site
Cheers
Michael, you are not registered, if you were, someone could send you an email and help you. When i spot a Compass manual, I buy it, then scan it, and keep the scanned image in my computer. Then I sell the original copy to regain my money.

And Michael, that is what I mean about the photocopied manuals, they are poor, and when you try to print them out, they are even worse copies. I now have a new Coin Magnum manual for myself. I will tell you that it is not possible to operate the Coin Magnum without a factory manual, as there are things you will not know about the Coin Magnum unless you have the factory manual. It is the difference between success and failure using that Coin Magnum. From your experience, you know what I am saying, it is well worth it to find an original factory Compass manual.

There are two former Compass people, that you can purchase photocopied Compass manuals from, I got one that came from Steve Goss in Oregon in the past, and it was not worth the money spent for it. I believe it was $8.00 for a photocopy manual, and it is hardly readable. I bet his copy is from a photocopy!!! Each copy ends up slightly worse...

I recently bought some original Compass manuals from a former dealer, so I have some of them right now. I have a manual for a RM5 and RM6, covers both as they came out at the same time. Slightly different from the RM7 manual, which covers the Magnum series as well. It was a brand new manual, slightly shopworn from being stored all these years, but is clean and good copy.

I have not had a chance to flat-bed scan it at high resolution right now, as I am busy trying to fix my lawn sprinkler systems, due to lots of snow this winter. But after i do scan it, I will sell it for $20 to regain my cost. So if you want it, let me know, I only have one of them. Some of the collectors here might spot this now, and want it too, as it makes their collectables worth more money if they have an original factory manual in addition to the collectable metal detector. If you are going to collect a metal detector, you might just as well collect its factory manual as well. I have a brand new Coin Magnum copy for $30. Only one right now, crisp and clean.

If you think these are expensive, just look at the prices being asked for these old used Compass metal detectors, well used over the years...Not brand new, but used and scratched and well worn! So if you can find something that is new or near new, and you need it, better get it while it is available. They are not making any more Compass metal detectors you know. I have a brand new Compass X-100 and a brand new Compass XP Scanner, which I kept since being a dealer. Of course I have more money in them from what you can get used, but they are not damaged or used. Also have two brand new Compass Judge 2 detectors, with cases. Now I am not a collector, I buy to use my things, and I have used them to find coins, rings, and relics.

Incidently, Steve told me there is a Teknetics Mark 1 manual for sale right now on eBay, I do not need it, as I have one myself, for the Mark 1 and another one for the Mark 1 Ltd. Not sure what the price is right now, but it will be in demand I am guessing.
Melbeta
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Re: COMPASS RELIC MAGNUM 6

Michael
In reply to this post by Michael
 HELLO Melbeta I'm registered now
Thanks for all the info,but like yourself I do not collect them
I repair them and use them.This Relic Magnum 6 that I have was not working
I completely stripped it down clean all the dust lube some of the moving components
with electronic spray (Not WD40 the spray for rusted bolts nuts and so on )Because if you put that like some people spray on the pots like the volume or tuner you ruined the resistance.Anyway found the culprit a power transistor for the Audio.Replace it put all together again and it has a very powerful audio and everything works fine.The manual for the Relic Magnum 7 for working purposes it's the same only extra functions explained
Like the Audio pitch and tilt switch .But the switch that  has STD or DISC what is the STD is that the meaning for Standard  mode since you don't require movement and Discrimination does.
Mine is marked as a RELIC 6 but I have seen other pics in this forum and they don't have the manual or auto switch .Mine has only difference is the tilt and pitch functions.
Here is the pics of mine and regarding the manual for working purposes I have reprinted in larger and clear pages with Microsoft Word.RELIC MAGNUM 6
Moe
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Re: COMPASS RELIC MAGNUM 6

Moe
Hi Michael,you have a Relic Magnum 6 Automatic,the forerunner of the Relic Magnum 7 Automatic.  Both units appear the same,except the 7A has tone control,speaker tilt switch on the top of the control box,toggle for mode change and tuning.  I think the Relic Magnum 6 Automatic was relatively short lived.  I figure it was made around the late 1970s.  I have some old treasure magazines due to arrive and I'll see if they have a field test or product review on the RM 6A.
WORD UP!  I speak my mind when it comes to the older metal detectors.  
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Re: COMPASS RELIC MAGNUM 6

Michael
Thank you Use-it
I was just posting on Drew BC post on the 4th of May asking how does the Relic 7 change from
Standard to Discrimination mode and that I was a bit confused on the similarities compared to the other Relic 6
Regarding test as I said in the other post.I'm picking on Standard mode with Manual a very small tiny gold nugget
at 3 to 4 inches that new detectors can not detect.And the ground balance after the clean up I done on mine
is excellent .I have natural black soil boosted with pulverized rusty nail material mixed through for my tests.
And is able to balance it out while going pass the coil and adjusting the ground balance and pick up gold and silver items even while the mineralization  material  is on the coil.
After only having the idea to fix the unit.I'm beginning to like it.Even if like I have more powerful detectors.
Do you Use-it  have a manual or know where I can get a copy to print,since you sound like a more experience member.I know all the workings and functions,is only to have it or see what they say.
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Re: COMPASS RELIC MAGNUM 6

Melbeta
In reply to this post by Michael
In a message dated 5/13/2011 6:19:53 AM Mountain Standard Time, [hidden email] writes:


HELLO Melbeta I'm registered now
Thanks for all the info,but like yourself I do not collect them
I repair them and use them.This Relic Magnum 6 that I have was not working
I completely stripped it down clean all the dust lube some of the moving components with electronic spray (Not WD40 the spray for rusted bolts nuts and so on ) Because if you put that like some people spray on the pots like the volume or tuner


you can use TV Tuner cleaner spray, Radio Shack has it.


Anyway found the culprit a power transistor for the Audio.Replace it put all together
again and it has a very powerful audio and everything works fine.The manual for the Relic Magnum 7 for working purposes it's the same only extra functions explained
Like the Audio pitch and tilt switch .But the switch that  has STD or DISC what is the STD is that the meaning for Standard  mode since you don't require movement and Discrimination does.


    Standard is all metal mode, without any discrimination settings. The Standard mode is VLF, the discriminator mode is TR Discriminator, not VLF discriminator. TR discriminate mode requires movement in order to discriminate.

Mine is marked as a RELIC 6 but I have seen other pics in this forum and they don't have the manual or auto switch .Mine has only difference is the tilt and pitch functions.


   If you do a search, you will find a good discussion by Joe (Tx) and myself, regarding the various differences in the models of the Relic Magnum 6. Some had hard wired coil cables, others did not, some had large meters, others had smaller meters, and so on. I am not going to go back into it, do a search and you will learn a lot in that discussion. Melbeta

Here is the pics of mine and regarding the manual for working purposes I have reprinted in larger and clear pages with Microsoft Word


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Re: COMPASS RELIC MAGNUM 6

Melbeta
In reply to this post by Michael
Better put that rubber back on the coil connector, or the next problem will be a shorting out of the coil coax cable when that cable flexes a few times! You will find you can insert it back into the metal part, with a small tipped screwdriver blade...Your rubber protector has slide out of the protection location. It is to prevent flexing and movement of the cable inside the metal connector.

I would fix it right now before you use it!!!!!!
Melbeta
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Re: COMPASS RELIC MAGNUM 6

Michael
Thank you Melbeta
But regarding the rubber on the coil plug.Pic was taken before repair and clean up and strip down
That was also checked and as you say put in properly inside the plug
I have read the thread on the differences and it all makes sense.Thanks Melbeta and Use-it
My Relic Magnum 6 was made with the plug to change coils the Auto/Manual switch like the R.M 7
 To change from all metal to Discriminate like the R.M 7 has on the toggle switch on the handle
But the tilt switch and tone adjustment is on the R.M 7 but not on the R.M 6.
So I have as Use-it says the last one with all the changes before the R.M 7 named R.M 6 A for automatic
The original manual you have for the R.M 5 and R.M 6 does it mention the Auto/Manual function
If not there must have been a superseded one just for the last R.M 6A one.
Let me know when you get around scanning the manual or sell the original
Cheers
Michael  
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Re: COMPASS RELIC MAGNUM 6

Melbeta
In a message dated 5/13/2011 6:26:54 PM Mountain Standard Time, [hidden email] writes:


The original manual you have for the R.M 5 and R.M 6 does it mention the Auto/Manual function
If not there must have been a superseded one just for the last R.M 6A one.
Let me know when you get around scanning the manual or sell the original


  
No it doesn't, as when they came out with the RM6a (in 1979), they gave them this very same manual, and as I think right now, along with an addendum sheet, that covered the changes. I know of no special manual for the RM6a model. If they did, I missed it. I have NEVER seen a manual just specifically for the RM6a model. And I think there was a RM6b model too. I am a bit fuzzy on that, but it still lingers in my mind. It might have been a minor change, such as a meter or something. Maybe I am thinking of the Judge 1 models which had more variations.

I did a bit of looking into my files, and noticed they did get rid of the RM6a in 1980. here you go, from my records. It came in 1979,gone in 1980.:
Compass Discontinued Detectors of April 1980  !!!
Judge 1 Auto
Judge 5  
Yukon 99B
Relic Mag 6 Auto
and they only had a few 90B (Body Mounts) in stock, in which no more would ever be made.


My manual covers the RM5, RM6, and a third model called RM, although it is not mentioned on the cover. Later on, Compass began to cover more models in one manual, a few more pages maybe, but it saved them a lot of money on printing new model manuals. The earlier detectors had separate manuals. Except for the Cues and Libertys, I believe I have the manuals for all of the models. Even have original Compass schematics on some models, not all models.

I do not have the addendum sheet. I could make one up by taking the words out of the manual that covers the RM7a.

My RM6 manual is 16 pages counting the front cover and the rear cover, and it has a lot of useful information, that is not evident just from looking at the tuning and other control knobs on the detector. I recently sold a Judge 2 manual to a guy in Texas, and he was thrilled to get that manual, said it taught him a lot about the Judge 2 that he did not have any knowledge about.

At the time I was an avid Compass dealer, and I had created a actual in ground testing bed, with buried coins, some silver coins, well packed down, and tried to make it appear to be an buried site from years of burial. I knew that fresh buried coins do not appear like old buried coins.

So I could tell when a manufacturer "was fudging" on its advertising depth statements, and they do fudge a lot of the time. In fact, they play with descriptive words and use of specific words, that mislead one to think in does what they are alluding to do, but in reality, really does not do that. They are really skilled in the art of advertising.

But by testing the detectors myself, that way, I could tell what it would do, what it would not do, not only for its model, but in comparison to other models. I was not a dummy, and determined not to let any company put their two fingers into my nostrils and lead me the way they wanted to lead me. You have to be really careful about claims that people say and make, as it can influence you the wrong way.

You can say I was a maverick, and that would be true. I figured it out myself, and did not need someone else tell me what I should think about anything. I am still like that, to the frustation of my wife. I have to know it by myself. I do my own tests, and I make up my own mind, when I make it up, I stick to my convictions. It requires real valid change to change me from my convistions. I see a lot of statements and claims, and they fall off my back just like rain off a duck's butt. You have to be that way, or you become a sucker.

The addendum would have had the same type of material that is in the manual for the RM7a detector.

As I looked into the various models that had the new automatic back then, and examined the schematics, what they did was very simple. There was a resistor in the tuning circuit, do not remember its value, but it controlled the tuning by its resistance. A specific resistor can maintain the flow of current so that something operates as it was intended to operate.

So if you put a "normally open" push button over it, in series, as long as you did not push down on the push button, the normal resistor controlled that tuning by its resistance. So when you pushed down on the push button, what you did was "short over" the resistor which effectively took the resistor out of circuit, gave a spurt of extra voltage current to the circuit, and thus gave a "quick tuning" in place of the gradual tuning (specific voltage current flow) afforded by the resistor's normal current resistance. Think of it like pushing down on the car's accelerator for a moment or so.

And so they came out with a new option, the toggle switch, which switched back and forth, between standard tuning (that normal resistor in the circuit) and the faster automatic tuning (which kept the short in place over the tuning resistor).

I like to call such things "razzle and dazzle", as they are just that, to create a new option, simple as it may be, but still look like something new, to help boost sales of Compass and other manufacturer's detectors. To you it sounds like a new feature. All the toggle switch did was "hold down" the earlier push button switch, to keep it in shorting position. Thus it was called AUTOMATIC. As long as the push button was held down, or the toggle switch holds it in position, it is "automatic". Now if you think about that a moment, it is really not "automatic", it is just a toggle modification to the circut. Automatic to me means something does some thinking for me and by that thinking it does it automatically in my place. But I will not argue the point. If you glue the push button down, it becomes "automatic".

I told another person about this feature, and he did it on the handle toggle switch, and he got a three position selection that way (normally on, normally off, and "automatic") and it improved his Compass detector.

What I am telling you is that anyone can make an ordinary Relic Magnum 5, or Relic Magnum 6, or the other model, the Relic Magnum into an "automatic", by employing that "razzle and dazzle" modification. That can be done to almost any metal detector if you wish to do so. I know of other razzle and dazzle things they did to metal detectors, but called them new features for sales purposes...A lot of things can be done to ordinary electronics, and give them other uses or different uses. Yes manufacturers do "fudge" with electronic parts and with words, to sell metal detectors to the unwary and the uninformed person. It is not exactly a lie, lets be kind and call it a "white lie", told to us for our own good.
Melbeta
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Re: COMPASS RELIC MAGNUM 6

Joe Ranger
...I probably need to double check ....but at least for the RM6's that I have .... all of them ...have the toggle switch for Manual/Auto.......Ok...at least this is true in my area... all of the dealers pointed out that Manual Mode was deepest.....one could hear the faint tics that indicated a faint/deep target......the Auto mode would smooth out these tics ...so basically they could not be heard.......The Auto Mode would only be used at the beach or maybe a very trashy area......or very mineralized area........Just my take on this.....AND FOR THE RECORD I USE ALL OF MY COMPASS DETECTORS.......LOL.......Joe
COMPASS: COIN MAGNUM, JUDGE1, JUDGE 2, XP-PRO, XP-350, GOLD SCANNER, RM1,RM6,RM7, MAGNUM 220, 240, 320, 420.... TESORO: GOLDEN SABRE II, SILVER SABRE, ORIGINAL LOBO... GARRETT: SIDEWINDER (BFO), original HUNTER (BFO), DEEPSEEKER, DEEKSEEKER ADS, GROUNDHOG, GROUNDHOG ADS, AT4, AT-PRO, GTP 1350, ORIGINAL SEAHUNTER PULSE INDUCTION.....WILSON: RARE HYBRID DAYTONA II/RANGAR.....MINELAB: SOVEREIGN ELITE, XT 17000
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Re: COMPASS RELIC MAGNUM 6

Melbeta
Joe(TX) wrote
...I probably need to double check ....but at least for the RM6's that I have .... all of them ...have the toggle switch for Manual/Auto.......Ok...at least this is true in my area... all of the dealers pointed out that Manual Mode was deepest.....one could hear the faint tics that indicated a faint/deep target......the Auto mode would smooth out these tics ...so basically they could not be heard.......The Auto Mode would only be used at the beach or maybe a very trashy area......or very mineralized area........Just my take on this.....AND FOR THE RECORD I USE ALL OF MY COMPASS DETECTORS.......LOL.......Joe
Joe, you are correct. The manual mode goes deeper, as you can hear the faint tics of a faint/deep target. The automatic mode is to eliminate ground minerals affecting the tuning audio hum. It is to maintain a constant audio hum. I also found automatic mode not to be of use to me if I wanted to find faint deep sounds. It is not that the manual mode is actually deeper, it is just that you can hear the faint signals, the automatic mode tunes out the faint sounds. And if you are trying to pinpoint a faint deep target, better not have it on the automatic mode either. It will tune out the target fairly quick.

My thoughts on this automatic/manual toggle switch? Change it back to all manual mode. Then I would build an audio amplifier circuit, stick it inside, and use the toggle switch to switch between "no amplification" and "full amplification". Search in full amplification, when you hit a target, switch to no amplification and check it out to see if it is faint and deep target. Now that is a really useful option!
Melbeta
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Re: COMPASS RELIC MAGNUM 6

Michael
Hello To ALL Members in the post
Melbeta I don't have much working knowledge on the Compass models,other then the R.M 6A
But from experience on repairing metal detectors I can say that Automatic is very useful in keeping
your detector tune to the original best threshold tune you set it up with.
The killer on manual is threshold stability point,when you just wanted to be a faint signal at the ready for a
detection on a target.But any change on the soil mineralization and it will go negative and you have to be aware of it and keep on pushing the re-tune  button to keep it at the best level,most detectors if you don't in manual start drifting by themselves also,so again you have to re-tune with the push button .That's why in some situations the Automatic mode has it's advantages,because it always stays tune to the original setting,yes you might loose depth,but in manual  if you don't keep up with the re-tune push button you loose a lot more.
Regarding the amplification on the signal,they have the ones that plug on the phone jack so you can hear deeper or faint signals.One thing I have notice,at least in the R.M 6A from other older brands is the advantage on Discrimination .Meaning that you do not need motion just like on the all metal or Standard mode.A lot of detectors while in Discrimination they have to swing the coil to get a good signal.In some cases very useful where there is no room to do so.

Cheers
Michael
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Re: COMPASS RELIC MAGNUM 6

Joe Ranger
...MICHAEL.....Although it does seem to be agrivating to keep hitting the retune button...once you push the button ....the retune action is about instaneous....I remember when .....drift was a really big problem and all we could do was Manually retune.....this I guaranty is a lot slower than just hitting the retune switch......I cannot explain why but some detector that are the same model and the same manufacturer  are extremely different in how stable they are......I have had a few models that one of them would be a lot more sensitive plus a lot more stable than the rest......and this is comparing apples to apples....same model ......same manufacturer...........if depth is not the problem .....I would use the Auto Mode......HH.....Joe
COMPASS: COIN MAGNUM, JUDGE1, JUDGE 2, XP-PRO, XP-350, GOLD SCANNER, RM1,RM6,RM7, MAGNUM 220, 240, 320, 420.... TESORO: GOLDEN SABRE II, SILVER SABRE, ORIGINAL LOBO... GARRETT: SIDEWINDER (BFO), original HUNTER (BFO), DEEPSEEKER, DEEKSEEKER ADS, GROUNDHOG, GROUNDHOG ADS, AT4, AT-PRO, GTP 1350, ORIGINAL SEAHUNTER PULSE INDUCTION.....WILSON: RARE HYBRID DAYTONA II/RANGAR.....MINELAB: SOVEREIGN ELITE, XT 17000
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Re: COMPASS RELIC MAGNUM 6

Melbeta
In reply to this post by Michael
In a message dated 5/15/2011 10:31:19 AM Mountain Standard Time, [hidden email] writes:


Hello To ALL Members in the post
Melbeta I don't have much working knowledge on the Compass models,other then the R.M 6A
But from experience on repairing metal detectors I can say that Automatic is very useful in keeping your detector tune to the original best threshold tune you set it up with.
Michael, since you repair detectors, you can even replace the resistor inside the circuit, with an adjustable resistor pot, and make the automatic mode go as fast or as slow as you want it to automatically re-tune the detector! Some people have done this in the past. ..That way you can ignor the Manual/Automatic toggle switch. You see, while I have not used a Relic Magnum 6a myself, I have extensively used an Judge 2 for many many years, and pulled up an fantastic amount of old coins, jewelry, and relics from the earth. And it is still my most favorite Compass metal detector of them all!! Melbeta


The killer on manual is threshold stability point,when you just wanted to be a faint
signal at the ready for a detection on a target.But any change on the soil mineralization and it will go negative and you have to be aware of it and keep on pushing the re-tune  button to keep it at the best level,most detectors if you don't in manual start drifting by themselves also,so again you have to re-tune with the push button .

Michael, I agree with you 100% on the problem. The problem is there, and I cannot argue against the problem. But the further problem for me is, I am metal detecting for the very deep, faint targets, which I have discovered are faint and deep, and from digging them up, ARE the targets that every detectorist is wanting to find. BUT as Joe (Tx) discovered, and I discovered, the "automatic" mode removes those faint "tic" sounds. SO it is back to the Law of Economics again, do we manufacture "guns or butter"? We cannot manufacture both with our resources, we can either manufacture 100% guns, or 100% butter, or some % of guns and some % of butter. So this means we have to compromise somewhere and/or some place. Me, I prefer to push the re-tuning push button if the audio drifts. By suffering that annoying requirement, "I at least can hear the faint deep "tic" noise. I keep the tuned audio buzz, loud enough (not really "faint" but adequately loud so it is apparent to me...) so that I can hear it very easy, not a faint sound. But that is my my method. My method may not be your method. I have to hear the audio tuning sound all the time, or I cannot find faint deep targets! So if it disappears, then I hit the re-tune button! Try my method suggestion, and you will discover the rewards far exceed the troublsome extra work. "Nothing ventured, nothing gained"! Melbeta
That's why in some situations the Automatic mode has it's advantages,because it
always stays tune to the original setting,yes you might loose depth,but in manual  if you don't keep up with the re-tune push button you loose a lot more.
Regarding the amplification on the signal,they have the ones that plug on the phone jack so you can hear deeper or faint signals.One thing I have notice,at least in the R.M 6A from other older brands is the advantage on Discrimination .

Michael, I have that also, and used it since the 1970's, and from it I have taken the faint deep "tic" sounds, to a loud surface sound. But then how do you tell if it is a faint deep "tic", or a surface sound? Well, I am going to answer that myself. In my audio amplifier unit, I have a toggle switch, that switched my audio amplifer into amplfication and out of amplification. So each target, I find it with audio amplification, do not know if it is surface or deep target. So I switch the audio amplifier off, then I know for sure, if it is deep faint "tic" or louder near the surface target. So I have the best of all worlds, and NO doggone automatic "tuning out of the faint deep tic target sounds"! So you see, for myself, the controversary you mentioned above, does not exist anymore! Melbeta
Meaning that you do not need motion just like on the all metal or Standard mode.A
lot of detectors while in Discrimination they have to swing the coil to get a good signal.In some cases very useful where there is no room to do so.

  
It is a TR discrimination detector, not a VLF motion discrimination detector, so
yes, there is no motion requred to discriminate. The "all-metal" mode in this detector, is VLF, but the discriminator is NOT VLF! And if you have no mineralization to contend with, it goes as deep or perhaps slightly deeper than a VLF discrimination detector in the same soil. And for your interest, here is a photo of my TWO different audio amplifier units I have used since the 1970's. Melbeta

Cheers
Michael




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Re: COMPASS RELIC MAGNUM 6

Melbeta
In reply to this post by Joe Ranger
In a message dated 5/15/2011 11:59:16 AM Mountain Standard Time, [hidden email] writes:


...MICHAEL.....Although it does seem to be agrivating to keep hitting the retune button...once you push the button ....the retune action is about instaneous....I remember when .....drift was a really big problem and all we could do was Manually retune.....this I guaranty is a lot slower than just hitting the retune switch......I cannot explain why but some detector that are the same model and the same manufacturer  are extremely different in how stable they are......I have had a few models that one of them would be a lot more sensitive plus a lot more stable than the rest......and this is comparing apples to apples....same model ......same manufacturer...........if depth is not the problem .....I would use the Auto Mode......HH.....Joe
I agree with Joe 100%. I have noticed the very same thing when testing out each Compass metal detector, as I came into my shop. I would test it in the rear of my shop, before putting it up for sale, and there were differences. The differences are due to the inate internal real values in parts, quality, and attention to assembly and construction. Some detectors were better then other detectors, in the very same models! Joe noticed that too. Just like the physical condition of human beings. Melbeta


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